Good morning.
Thank you for having me here to discuss this important topic of seafood traceability and labelling in Canada.
My name is Sonia Strobel. I am the co-founder and CEO of Skipper Otto Community Supported Fishery, based here on Musqueam, Squamish, and Tsleil-Watuth land in Vancouver, B.C.
We've been in business for 13 years and we pre-sell all the catch of our 40 Canadian fishing families directly to over 7,500 member families across Canada. As you've been hearing all day today, Canada has a problem with seafood traceability, especially at the retail and restaurant levels. The ripple effects of mislabelled seafood in Canada for Canadian fishing families, consumers and small businesses like mine are massive. I want to talk a bit about that today.
As you know, there is a growing and significant demand for local, traceable food in Canada. The pandemic and the recent supply chain crises have brought traceability and local sourcing to the forefront of people's minds. Canadian consumers want to know if their seafood purchases are supporting Canadian fishing families or if they're propping up illegal operations and slavery, yet locally caught seafood is indiscernible from foreign fish in the marketplace because of our labelling rules.
As you discussed with the previous panel, foreign fish often masquerades as Canadian fish because our labels only need to state the country of the most recent “transformation”. A piece of fish on a styrofoam tray, harvested in Southeast Asia, might say “Product of Canada” because it was cut here. It goes both ways. I've seen sockeye salmon in my local grocery store that was likely caught in B.C. or Alaska but labelled as “Product of China” because it was cut there.
When you think about it, I know more about where my cellphone comes from than the fish I'm about to feed my family. I know where it was designed versus where it was manufactured. Heck, I can even find out where the zinc was mined to make it, right?
As Mr. Zimmer said in the previous panel, we do a great job of tracing and labelling our meats, so there's no reason why we shouldn't expect this kind of thorough labelling in seafood too.
Domestic markets for seafood are some of the strongest available for fishing families, yet our seafood can’t compete on the grocery shelf because it’s sitting next to cheap copycat fish, which might be cheap because it was harvested by slave labour or destroyed delicate ecosystems in the process. Canadian consumers who want to buy local, sustainable seafood and fishing families who want to sell it to local consumers should be and able to do that. We need our government to protect small businesses and consumers through better traceability and labelling laws.
It's tough to know where your seafood comes from, but it’s also hard to know what species you’re getting. Dr. Hanner, in the previous panel, referenced our confusing rules around naming fish. For example, the ubiquitous common name of “red snapper” can be used to identify 47 different species of fish. The term “rockfish” could refer to 100 different species, some of which are abundant and sustainable and some of which are endangered. When a label says “cod”, which is it? Atlantic cod? Pacific cod? Black cod? Lingcod? Incidentally, “lingcod” isn’t even a cod.
The point is, if you want to make more money off a piece of fish, all you have to do is use one of these vague names and charge what you can get away with. As a consumer, you should have the information to make your own choices about what you want to support and put in your body. There’s so much great information out there about the health reasons and the sustainability reasons to choose different fish. Consumers should have access to the information to help them make these choices.
At Skipper Otto, our labels go above and beyond what's required. I'll show you some examples of our labels. Here’s an example of one. It has the full common name, the scientific name and all the information about which of our 40 fishers caught it, on what boat, when, where, and how. We’re really proud of the direct connections that we have with harvesters and our ability to do that.
I’m not saying that all of that needs to be the law tomorrow, but our company has been growing for over a decade because of strong consumer demand for that kind of traceability. The time is right for all seafood industry labels to have a higher minimum standard to avoid penalizing companies like ours when competing with cheap look-alike fish. At the very least, there needs to be some standardization around common name conventions and country of origin if we want to give Canadians the chance to shop according to their values.
The last thing I want to bring up is that all of this indicates an enforcement problem, which was addressed in the last panel as well. You can’t argue that all of this mislabelled seafood is just an innocent mistake. As the previous panel discussed, 69% of Oceana's mislabelled samples were farmed salmon labelled as wild. Clearly, that wasn't by accident. Mislabelled seafood is almost always a cheaper fish masquerading as a more expensive fish.
You can make all the laws you want about what should go on a label, but if we don't enforce those laws, things won't change. Because of weak enforcement, when seafood fraud is uncovered, people shrug and point to someone up the stream from them, pay the fines and carry on. It's just the cost of doing business. But there should be significant incentive for each person in the supply chain to vouch for what they're selling.
DNA testing, as was discussed in the last panel, is getting cheaper and easier, so there's no excuse for selling mislabelled fish except that you like that it was cheaper and you're willing to turn a blind eye to suspiciously cheap fish so you can make a profit.
Not following through on this enforcement work hurts small businesses like mine, which are trying to do the right thing by supporting local harvesters and sustainable fishing practices.
There's so much more to say on the topic. I'm happy to answer your questions to the best of my ability. Thank you for having me here today.